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April Gardening Guidelines
April brings spring gardening is to a fever
pitch, and nurseries are fully stocked with all kinds of plants and products for every
purpose for the itchy green thumb. Here are a few gardening tasks for the month of
April that you might find helpful.
A common azalea question is: "When do I prune my azaleas". Since they bloom on
growth produced the previous year, you must wait until they finish blooming before
pruning. The same holds true with spirea, forsythia, pearlbush, wisteria and any other
early spring blooming plant. Azaleas don't have to be pruned every year, but you might
find it desirable to remove long shoots sticking up above the rest of the bush to keep
the growth more compact.
Climbing roses may also be pruned as soon as they complete flowering.
Camellias should be fertilized this month, and once azaleas finish blooming, fertilize
them, too, to stimulate new growth. Just be careful not to fertilize too heavily, and
evenly distribute the fertilizer over the root zone. Their shallow roots can be easily
burned when fertilizer is applied in concentrated piles.
Roses have relatively high fertility requirements, so fertilization can begin now and
continue every 4 to 6 weeks until September.
For faster color, purchase annuals already started. Select short, compact plants,
preferably ones that have not yet begun to flower. Remove flowers and buds to give the
plants an opportunity to become well established before flowering.
One of the best hot-weather, summer plants is the periwinkle (vinca). Eager gardeners
setting out vinca too early may lose it to a fungal blight. By waiting until it gets hot
(later in May) to plant vinca in the sunny part of the yard, you almost totally avoid this
problem. Mulching can also help reduce disease problems by reducing soil splashing
up onto the leaves.
Perennials for summer color include lantana, daylilies, verbena, hostas, salvia,
sedums, ornamental grasses, purple coneflower, rudbeckia, ferns and summer phlox.
I often see garden plots with very crowded rows of vegetable seedlings.
Without thinning these seedlings to allow room between each individual
plant, the plants will be weak and spindley and the harvest will be disappointing.
Follow recommended spacing distances between plants for each crop. For example,
green beans should be thinned to a 3 - 4 inch spacing, while lima beans grow larger
and need 4 - 6 inches. Pole beans need about 6 inches between plants. If the plantlets
are very large, and pulling would disturb their neighbors, thin by clipping the shoots off
at ground level. Greens, like lettuce, collard and mustards, should be thinned several
times until you get the final spacing. That way you can eat the "thinnings".
Store left over vegetable seeds in a sealed container in the refrigerator if you'd like to
keep them for next season. A tablespoon of powdered milk wrapped in tissue can help
absorb moisture to keep the seeds fresh.
For best growth and yield, make additions of nitrogen fertilizer (called side dressing)
every couple of weeks, starting about a month after transplanting or seeding. This will
keep vegetables growing vigorously so they reach their maximum yield potential.
Keith Hansen is Smith County Horticulturist with the Texas Agricultural Extension
Service. His web page is http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/county/smith.
Educational programs of the Texas Agricultural Extension Service are open to all
individuals without regard to race, color, sex, disability, religion, age or national origin.
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