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June Gardening Guideline by Keith C. Hansen, Extension Horticulturist, Smith Co. - Tyler, Texas
School's out, it's
getting hotter and summer time activities are getting into full swing.
June brings both the opportunity to plant summer color, and the routine garden
maintenance of mowing and weeding. This spring's plentiful rainfall has hopefully
helped our lawns, trees and gardens to begin to recover from last year's extreme
stress. Take advantage of the longer days by doing gardening tasks in the morning or
evening when it is more pleasant to be outside. To keep the lawn and garden looking
great, here are a few tips for this June.
For St. Augustine or Bermuda lawns making poor growth thus far this year, make a
second application of fertilizer. For best results, use a fertilizer with a high percentage
of slow- release nitrogen so the grass won't grow quite so rapidly. Be careful to not
apply too much fertilizer.
Warning! A wet, rainy June and lushly growing grass from high rates of
nitrogen can lead to grey leaf spot, a fungal disease of St. Augustine grass. Symptoms
include grey lesions outlined in black on the leaf blades. Severe infestations result in a
"melting away" appearance, with the leaves collapsing, quickly decaying,
exposing the soil underneath. Areas staying wet, in the shade, in low spots, frequently
watered, infrequently mowed and recently fertilized are the most prone to grey leaf
spot.
Centipede lawns fertilized earlier this year do not need to be fertilized at this
time. Wait until fall for the next application.
As spring rains slack off and give way to drier days, apply supplemental water as
needed. The rule of thumb is to water enough to wet the soil 5 to 6 inches deep. Do not
water too frequently. Shallow, frequent watering promotes a shallow root system that is
more susceptible to the stress of summer heat and winter cold.
As you check your shrubs, ground covers and flower beds, watch for seedling trees,
such as oak, hickory and pecan. They are more easily pulled when young, and an old
pair of pliers will help you get the grip needed close to the ground to pull up root and
all. They are also more easily extracted when the soil is moist.
Color for shady areas include caladiums, coleus, impatiens and bedding begonias. Try
nicotiana and coleus in partial shade, or for full sun the two Texas SuperStars (TM)
SunColeus varieties 'Burgundy Sun' and 'Plum Parfait'.
Many nurseries now have a great supply of perennials to brighten the summer garden.
Look for perennial hibiscus, canna, daylilies (select soon for the color you want),
yarrow, summer phlox, salvia, perennial lantana, montbretia, Rudbeckia 'Goldstrum'
and purple coneflower.
Plant mums now for fall bloom. Pinch back established mums, along with other fall
bloomers like Mexican mint marigold, Mexican bush sage (Salvia leucantha) and
autumn asters to encourage compactness and more flowers.
Water transplants before you plant and then again afterwards. The soil should be well-
prepared with additions of organic matter, and well-drained. Apply a diluted solution of
water-soluble fertilizer at planting and then regularly once plants begin to put on new
growth. Remove faded blooms to encourage new growth and repeat bloom. A layer of
mulch will conserve water and prevent weeds.
Summer tropical plants, though they are not freeze hardy, are perfectly at home in our
East Texas heat and humidity. Plant them in the ground for quick growth or plant in
pots or tubs so you can overwinter them indoors. Some of the best include tropical
hibiscus, penta, oleander (semi-hardy), bougainvillea, mandevilla vine (spectacular!),
agapanthus, trailing lantanas, allamanda vine and plumbago. These sun and heat
lovers will quickly brighten up your yard and give a great display all summer and fall.
Spider mites can occur on tomatoes, roses, junipers, marigolds and other ornamentals
now that the weather is hot and dry. Look for stippled leaves, and under severe
infestations, fine webbing. Spider mites can be detected by taking suspicious leaves
and rapping them over a white sheet of paper. Any dots which move are probably
mites. Light infestations can be reduced by frequently syringing leaves with a sharp
stream of water or using insecticidal soap. For more severe problems, use an approved
miticide.
Keith Hansen is Smith County Horticulturist with Texas Cooperative Extension. His web page is http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/county/smith. Educational programs of Texas Cooperative Extension are open to all individuals without regard to race, color, sex, disability, religion, age or national origin.
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